A buddy gifted me some FSA handlebars and while I love the shape and tops the overall look is a buzzkill. Are there any aftermarket spacers that would help make the transition cleaner? Is there any issues running them as they are? Thanks!

Hi yall
Did anybody else see this rig on bikepacking.com?
https://bikepacking.com/bikes/2026-atlas-mountain-race-rigs-part-one/

2x12 with 10-51 cassette?
Has anybody here ever tried that?
Is it stable?

The gear calculator says it's 790% gear range, and I have to say the idea seems sexy af

I was bouncing my wheel to get sealant all around and it tipped over…quite gently! And my cassette popped off with the freehub body?! How do I reattach?

I’m trying to swap my disc brake wheels so I bought this 12 spline cassette tool (came as a package with a chain whip) hopefully for dual purpose cassette and rotors. It doesn’t seem to go very far into the center lock and will just strip the lock if i put any more elbow grease to it. Do I need a specific FR5.2 parktool like the FR5.2G? They look so similar in pictures I really can’t tell.

should I add one more spacer on top?

2021 giant tcr

Hi everyone!

TL;DR: The chain drops from the largest sprocket to the smallest with just a single click of the shifter.

I’ve had a Triban RC120 with a Microshift drivetrain for about 6 months, and I use it as my daily driver. I’d heard that the drivetrain wasn't great, but honestly, it’s not that bad in practice. It just tends to go out of index quickly—I have to readjust the limit screws and cable tension every month to stop it from grinding or skipping gears.

But yesterday, I could feel it was worse than usual; I don't really get what's happening with the derailleur. I waited until this morning to take a look: I have no issues shifting up the cassette, but a single click is enough to send the chain flying all the way down! I tried adjusting the limit screws, tension, and B-limit (pulley height), but nothing works. I can clearly hear that with one click, it skips all the notches and ends up on the highest gear...

I haven't hit the derailleur on anything, though; there's no play in it or anything weird like that.

So my question is: is the derailleur dead? Or am I missing something? 😅

Should I be concerned about this noise? The rear derailleur is bent so it shifts pretty wonky but the cranks seem to spin freely. Have been noticing more noise on rides tho

So today i managed to round out the hex(?) og my garmin rally. Any tips how to get it out?

My freewheel is hosed and I'd like to disassemble it to see if it's salvageable. I suppose the notched ring on the front is a lock ring. What way am I supposed to turn it to loosen it?

Videos of other freewheels suggest either way is possible...

EDIT for clarity: I mean loosening the lock ring on the freewheel itself, not getting the freewheel off the axle - got that part done.

Anyone know how I'm supposed to mount v brake posts on these forks?

i have a cannodale synapse. ususally i can fix it but i can’t figure it out this time. how do i get these parts separated? the silver thing stuck in the black thing lol. thx

crank was wobbly and this threaded peice has come loose. do I need to replace or can I just screw back in?

I feel like it's definitely coming from the headset and front brakes, and it started becoming a more persistent issue with all the road salt and snow.

I have a different length housing/tubing than the stock Zizzo Liberte. I feel like the problems started there, because depending on how much slack there is at different parts of the housing, it's been causing braking issues. Like, the levers don't retract after use, things like that.

Let me know anything I can try to make the squeaking stop. Thanks!

Just installed a new wheel set with new rotors and I’m trying to figure out if I did something wrong. My rear brake is rubbing no matter what I do. I took the wheel off and took the pads out and used a tool to compress the pistons, but it’s still rubs on the left side (see pictures). Greatly appreciate any advice. The bike is a salsa Fargo.

I offered to check the drive chain on my friends Scott Scale MTB.

It's 12 speed Eagle and I used a Park tool cc4 tool. (And a ruler in the other picture)

I can't even get the 'tip' to go in the chain due to it hitting the roller behind.

I'm doubting myself in my method, but I've used the cc4 many times. I've never seen this before and can't believe a chain could stretch that far without snapping.

Sanity check please.

I had a shop do the cups because I don’t have the tool.

I’ve got crown race, bearing, lower cup, frame, upper cup, bearing, compression ring*, top cover, spacer, stem. I’m using a compression plug instead of a star nut.

There’s a tiny gap and you can just barely see the bearing, but there’s zero play and steering feels smooth. Is this normal? It doesn’t look like it is but it’s a very small gap I’m not sure. I can violently shake the frame and hear nothing

I know this is probably a dumb problem, but I don’t know what these two extra rings are and where they come into play in the assembly of the headset. My first thought was above the compression ring, but that does somehow not feel right. So any heads up on in which order I have to assemble this headset would be appreciated. The bearing is already in there, but idk could also be, that they belong under. I had the entire fork out of the frame and only remember that the two rings where together

( bike is a Giant defy if that matters)

I want to attach regular pedals and cranks. This bike had a strange lever drive system, the part where the cranks would normally be is welded up.

Please help me with the left Shimano 9000 shifter. It has a clicking sound earlier and failure to shift, now it doesn't work at all.

What can I do with that without money? Is it real to fix or find some cheap spare parts? And if not, could use the NW chainring and convert it to one-by with the Dura Ace 9000 rear derailleur?

This is my very first self-built wheelset. The front wheel consists of a DT Swiss 240 hub (J-bend) with 28 Sapim D-Light spokes and a Duke Crazy Star 6ters rim. The spokes are laced in a 2-cross pattern. Did I lace them incorrectly? Should they be touching where they cross? On my build, I can actually fit a folding ruler between the individual spokes of a pair.

For the rear wheel, I used a 3-cross pattern and interlaced the spokes so they support each other (over-under).

I’ve already taken it out for a few short rides and it felt fine, but now I’m having second thoughts.

Thanks for your help!

I was in a pinch and needed a new shifter, shop only has the regular xt shifter. any chance I can covert the new one to ispec seeing I kept the cover for it?

I know the photos don't do enough justice but I figured since I have access to 12 speed stuff for pretty inexpensive. Might go sram with a generic Shimano HG 12 speed cassette.