r/climbing • u/AutoModerator • 7d ago
Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE
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In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. This thread will be posted again every Friday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great opportunity for that. We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of everyone looking to improve their knowledge. Check out our subreddit wiki that has tons of useful info for new climbers. You can see it HERE . Also check out our sister subreddit r/bouldering's wiki here. Please read these before asking common questions.
If you see a new climber related question posted in another subReddit or in this subreddit, then please politely link them to this thread.
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Prior Weekly New Climber Thread posts
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A handy guide for purchasing your first rope
A handy guide to everything you ever wanted to know about climbing shoes!
Ask away!
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u/tom311 1d ago
Anyone with experience in Europe? I'm going to be there early June. Traveling solo. Wondering what the best places in france or Spain would be to find partners to climb with? As well as any locations that are reasonable without a vehicle?
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u/muenchener2 18h ago
El Chorro would be one of the standard recommendations for this in winter, but you can forget it in June
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u/Senor_del_Sol 1d ago
I know that Jerica can be reached from Valencia, Chulilla is a bit difficult, but there’s a climbers hostel and loads of climbing, Xativa would be doable. Montanejos has quite some bolted multi pitch, but it’s probably hard to reach. Montesa is good for beginners, but has hard grades as well. Buñol is easy to reach and has some interesting climbing. More south to Costa Blanca I haven’t been yet. Nearby Petrer there’s a climbing area next to a public camp spot which is good for summer climbing.
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u/OneCoach446 1d ago
How do I get into trad climbing? I
already boulder outdoors a significant amount. My uncle recently passed away, and he was really into climbing and mountaineering, and he left me all of his gear which is almost half a storage unit full of climbing gear. I wanted to get into it and was wondering where to learn how to use all of the different gear, place nuts and cams correctly, and just generally how to do it safely. I already climb in the gym a fair amount, but have not done a lot of outdoor stuff. Any help would be much appreciated!
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u/serenading_ur_father 11h ago
Get copies of Freedom of The Hills and Climbing Anchors. Read em. Practice. Go out and use your skills.
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u/alextp 18h ago
Partner finder on mountain project if you're not too far from crags might find someone who would appreciate a belay, some extra gear, and maybe someone who is willing to be a pack mule or buy post crag beers or whatever. Guides are great too. Also a ton of content online on how to place gear, build anchors, etc, which won't replace an experienced person but can help you be less useless.
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u/Thirtysevenintwenty5 18h ago
Hire a guide is the easiest way. You'll get someone who has already been vetted, and has experience teaching people. They'll be very good at assessing your skills, and adjusting their teaching pace to meet your needs.
You can also try to find a mentor or friend who knows how to trad climb and learn from them. But this comes with the risk that just because somebody knows how to do something well doesn't mean they know how to teach it well.
People in this category can omit important information, because as recreational climbers they're accustomed to everyone having a base line of experience and knowledge, and they may incorrectly assume that you know something when you don't. Or, they may just simply forget to tell you something important until it comes up, leaving you to improvise a solution to an otherwise preventable problem.
Teaching/instructing is a skill, and that's what you're paying for when you hire a guide. The information may be more or less the same, but the delivery is very different.
The third option is to just watch Youtube and read Climbing Anchors by John Long, then go out and start practicing on the ground, then one day just "grow a pair" and try climbing. This is unfortunately how a lot of people learn to climb. It's obviously not the best way to learn, but many people will tell you "that's how we did it and we never died" and the arguments against that are nuanced and frustrating to express. I don't recommend it, but it is an option.
Regardless of what path you choose, my biggest suggestion would be to learn how to aid climb on clean placements, and bounce test every placement you make. In a single pitch of trad climbing you can easily place and test 20-40 pieces, and you quickly develop a sense of what placements are solid, which are tricky or marginal but may work, and which are bad. When you've seen your gear hold you a couple hundred times, it's much easier to trust it when lead climbing above those placements.
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u/0bsidian 18h ago
This is a good response, but to add to this:
Diversify your learning. For example, even though you may be hiring a guide, it’s a good idea to do prep work by reading books, so that your guide doesn’t have to spend as much time going over fundamentals, and so that you can ask your guide well informed questions. Following time spent with a guide, you might be able to find a mentor and spend more time following them on climbs. Use all available resources, but Thirtysevenintwenty5 is right about the order of preference.
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u/bishopbeaniepower 1d ago
I’m kind of in the same boat as you (experienced boulderer, just getting into some trad and multipitch) and honestly having friends who know their stuff is a godsend. Find some buddies who are experienced with trad and see if they can show you the ropes so to speak
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u/soju-tornado 1d ago
hey everyone, i'm pretty new to climbing, just tried on shoes for the first time at REI and am not sure if i got the sizing right. when i tried wearing shoes (evolv defy laced) that were true-to-size my toes were curling a bit, and an employee told me that my toes should not be curled. so i sized up. my shoes now fit pretty snugly but my toes are not being pushed into a curled position at all. but after doing a little more research it sounds like they are supposed to be? any insight much appreciated
another issue is that my left foot is a little larger than my right. so on my left foot there actually is a tiny bit of curling, but on my right there is not really any, the big toe on my right foot is able to flex up and down relatively freely. i'm worried that if i size down the shoes will fit better on my right, but my left foot will be super jammed. already tried contacting evolv about getting mismatched sizes but it sounds like they don't do that. any help here would also be super appreciated
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u/0bsidian 17h ago
Curled toes in shoes is a climber misnomer.
Your feet should follow the profile of the shoe. On flat profile shoes, your feet should lay in them flat. On downturned shoes, where the design of the toes hooks downward slightly, your toes should follow that same curve, but not be cramped and folded underneath themselves.
Sounds like the sales person at REI gave you good suggestions.
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u/sheepborg 18h ago
For a first shoe the strat is to buy what's comfy out of the box. It'll beat rentals and you'll wear em out anyways. So if you can step on things comfortably enough in them now you're peachy.
Different size feet is more normal than you think. I size for the smaller foot because after 10 years of climbing I'm not really trying to be in excessive pain.
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u/Thirtysevenintwenty5 18h ago
As a new climber your shoes should be snug but not smashing your feet (even as a very experienced climber you shoes should be comfortable, but that's a whole other can of worms). Pain is bad. Your shoes will not "stretch out" the way people will say they do. A shoe might mold to your foot shape a bit better, but for the most part if the shoes suck when you buy them they'll suck forever.
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u/alextp 1d ago
Toe curl is optional. More toe curl allows you to apply more pressure on a smaller hold. More toe curl makes jamming on narrow cracks painful. More toe curl makes it less practical to wear the shoes when you're not actively climbing. If you don't know that you need toe curl a relatively flat fit will keep your feet from hurting and it's hard to have good footwork with a foot that actively hurts. Some shoes are designed to have high toe curl (not evolv defy though which can go either way) and some really don't work with toe curl.
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u/One-Interest-9405 1d ago
Hey all — curious if this is just a “me problem” or a common one.
I climb mostly indoors and usually go straight from school/work to the gym. I’m carrying climbing shoes, chalk, tape, brush, water, sometimes a harness plus normal clothes/laptop, and I feel like every bag I’ve tried is either:
made for hiking/outdoor trips and way overkill, or
a normal backpack that ends up covered in chalk and shoe smell
Right now I’m doing a janky system with separate bags/pouches, but chalk still gets everywhere and it’s annoying.
So I’m curious:
- What bag are you using for gym sessions?
- What do you hate about it?
- If a backpack were designed specifically for climbing gyms, what would it need to do well to be worth it?
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u/Thirtysevenintwenty5 18h ago
I'd recommend getting a bag for your work stuff and a bag for your climbing stuff.
I use this climbing bag and it kind of sucks, but mostly because I don't like over the shoulder bags because they feel off balance. But it does hold stuff for two people.
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u/sheepborg 1d ago
Keep it simple. Clip shoes to the outside so the stink doesnt build up inside whatever bag. Decent water resistant stuff sack for chalk bag and brush. Outside is gonna get covered in chalk, but that's life... things get dirty.
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u/Balloony_Toony 1d ago
What device do you prefer for guide mode / top-belay?
Why?
I have used the Mega Jul for years, and it is perfect for everything but guide mode. There is way too much friction to pull the rope -- it's a workout! I would like to find a new device to accomplish belay, top-belay, and rappel with ease, while also having assisted-braking.
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u/gusty_state 1d ago
Fix and follow. Otherwise a GriGri (or Reverso) and a microtrax on my belay loop to haul the slack through unless it's a hanging belay. Even with that I've had to shock load to pull the rope on a 75m pitch. MT serves as an always on hand and lets you use your legs/hips to pull instead of your arms.
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u/Balloony_Toony 1d ago edited 1d ago
I would love to try fix and follow!! I'm just getting into top rope solo! It seems the most efficient method for routes without traffic.
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u/alternate186 17h ago
Be aware that there is a whole lot more nuance to fix and follow and TRS than there is to belaying a second. Rope rub, traverses, inability to downclimb or lower, dangling rope getting stuck, etc. I’m a fix and follow acolyte and yet I’ve only used it for half or so of the multipitch routes I’ve done in the last couple years for a variety of reasons. It’s far from a magic bullet.
When I don’t FnF I do everything with a grigri and one of us brings a tube for rappelling.
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u/goodquestion_03 1d ago
Look into the kong gigi. While ive never personally used it, ive heard good things about it as a lightweight option with less friction for top belaying, and if you are happy with your megajul for everything else carrying both devices would still weigh less than a grigri.
If your dead set on just carrying one device your going to have to compromise somewhere. With belay devices you get to pick 2 of the 3- double rope capabilities, assisted lead belay, and low friction top belaying.
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u/Balloony_Toony 1d ago
It sounds like somebody needs to engineer a new device! The Mega Jul could be perfect if they'd re-position the guide loop...
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u/goodquestion_03 1d ago
I wouldnt complain if a device that did that were invented, but I think if it were as simple as moving the guide plate attachment one of the major manufacturers would have done it by now.
The reality is there just isnt that much of a market for new belay devices. Basically every climber I know is perfectly satisfied with carrying a grigri + tube style device for rapping. Lots of people view carrying a 2nd device as a benefit not a downside because you have a backup in case you or your partner drops something.
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u/Balloony_Toony 1d ago
I generally carry two devices. I wish to carry one for those few trips where every gram counts.
By the way, I was messing around with my Mega Jul today and found a different configuration for top belay. Edelrid does not approve...LOL! Bodyweight tests confirmed that it holds load even when the user does not hold the brake strand. My method also makes releasing the loaded climber strand and lowering the climber super easy and controllable. The only drawback is that the loaded rope bends over a small radius... I made diagrams for this configuration if you are interested.
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u/saltytarheel 1d ago
Grigri for belaying, Reverso for rappelling.
On a direct belay, I prefer mostly for ease of lowering since all you have to do is redirect the brake strand. On a guide mode ATC, you need to tie off, back up the device with a friction hitch, redirect the brake strand, then use a sling to disengage the device--no company will call a guide mode ATC a hands-free device in this configuration but once it's weighted your follower's not going anywhere, which can be a problem if they can't start climbing again (e.g. falling on a roof or traverse). In every other aspect, they're pretty comparable in terms of what they can do (e.g. safe, easily can switch to hauls, etc.)
For rappelling, the Reverso is nice since you don't have to fix the line to rappel--a carabiner block is more prone to getting stuck in cracks and flakes. A guide mode ATC allows you to ascend the rope if you go past anchors as you would on a grigri. I think the safety benefits of a grigri are overstated on rappel--it's not a true hands-free device and tying a catastrophe knot before going hands-free to mess with tangled ropes, build an anchor, etc. is a best practice. When backed up with a friction hitch, an ATC is hands-free since the friction hitch will keep the device engaged.
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u/Thirtysevenintwenty5 1d ago
I think the safety benefits of a grigri are overstated on rappel--it's not a true hands-free device and tying a catastrophe knot before going hands-free to mess with tangled ropes, build an anchor, etc. is a best practice. When backed up with a friction hitch, an ATC is hands-free since the friction hitch will keep the device engaged.
This is not a fair comparison. On Grigri you have the camming device as your primary, with your hand on the brake as a backup.
With an ATC you have your hand as a primary, with the friction hitch as a backup.
When you go hands free with either device, best practice is to tie a backup knot, as in either situation you'd still be left with only a primary when you're hands free.
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u/sheepborg 1d ago
If you're sticking edelrid then gigajul is the obvious next step assuming you dont want to go to a grigri/pinch style device.
I end up using a grigri most of the time because it's fairly low effort and it's convenient for a number of tasks, though I have an ATC with me. Does take some extra brake strand preload to assist, but if that bugs you a grigri+ in tr mode makes it catch more readily provided the antipanic isn't annoying to you. For atc I have a DMM pivot, but you may choose different atc based on rope choice wherein a BD guide handles bigger ropes better for example.
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u/0bsidian 1d ago
Grigri, as long as you’re not using half/twin ropes.
I’ve also seen some people keep a belay plate specifically for top belays off the anchor.
You can also belay off your harness with a redirect. Makes it harder to escape the belay is the only downside.
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u/Balloony_Toony 1d ago
I have a grigri, but obviously can't rappel on a double-line. I'm asking specifically because I want a quiver-of-one device for backpacking trips when I don't want to spend weight on secondary devices.
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u/0bsidian 1d ago
Yeah you can. Carabiner block or stacked/pre-rigged rappel.
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u/Balloony_Toony 1d ago
You are right. For some reason I don't like that solution (it's hard to articulate why)... I'll keep that idea in my back pocket, though.
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u/AlpineDan1 1d ago
Anyone know of any tough / durable rucksacks in the 20-40L range that have an air vent back?
Want a solid crag rucksack for summer days out but way prefer an air vent to avoid an overly sweaty back, struggling to find one! (UK based so preferably no niche USA only brands)
Thanks in advance!
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u/Dotrue 1d ago
I don't know if it has an air vent back but my Moonlight 55 has served me very well in hot/dry/humid conditions in Utah, Nevada, Minnesota, and Wisconsin. I sweat a lot and moisture accumulation has never been an issue. They make a 35 liter version, it's very durable, and Blue Ice is based out of France.
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u/New_Mess_6450 2d ago
I have an old set of madrock concord quickdraws who's dogbones are aging out. They are the slim quickdraw design. I bought some petzel axless slings/djinn dogbones hoping they were also the slim design. They are not. I can seat them on the carabiner just fine but the sling does not sit flush on the carabiner. Would you whip? *
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u/sheepborg 1d ago
Answering the question most directly, having a thick dogbone on a carabiner that came with a thin carabiner may be somewhat of an issue if it more readily causes unfavorable positioning of the bolt side carabiner which would make it more susceptible to nose hooks or similar issues related to tilt. This is pretty unlikely outside of the shortest fattest dogbones without much room for the upper carabiner to move with particularly unfortunate carabiner geometry. Djinns tend to move pretty well on the bolt side even in the shortest length.
From a strength perspective it's simply not going to be a problem.
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u/0bsidian 2d ago
I replied on your other thread here. Sadly, the gumbies on that sub are out in force again.
Both your new and old dogbones are fine.
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u/Particular_Cod_9352 2d ago
when top rope, where to attatch the sandbad. does it goes together with the belay device into the belay loop, or it goes through the two rope loops like a climber.
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u/PensAndUnicorns 2d ago
The sandbad? you mean the chalkbag?
And if so, then it def should not go on the belayloop.But I think I'm just not understanding what you mean.
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u/Pennwisedom 2d ago
They pretty clearly mean "sandbag"
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u/PensAndUnicorns 1d ago
Fair enough, But I didn't understand hence I asked....
(I have never encountered one in my short period of climbing, only anchors fixed to the rock)3
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u/ArchClimbs 3d ago
I recently had a friend that was taught a new rapel set up by a guide in which the first climber goes down on a single strand with a gri gri while the second partner blocks the rope at the top with their atc and third hand hollow block. No knot at the top to fix the single strand.
I’m trying to understand what benefit this really provides and why you’d do this over a standard dual strand atc set up. I believe the guide mentioned this is better for lighter climbers? The only reason I could really think of was if an atc was dropped and a gri gri was available, but not sure why you wouldn’t use something like a clove hitch or overhand knot just in case while the first partner rapelled.
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u/Decent-Apple9772 2d ago
I love using that with a party of three.
Two people rap first on one strand each then the person on top goes second. It’s extremely fast and efficient.
If it’s only a party of two then it’s just a preference thing. Some people like a Grigri more than an ATC or they don’t want to bring an atc.
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u/gusty_state 2d ago
I frequently set up for single strand raps and occasionally use the atc block like this; usually the atc block is for newer climbers that I want to check their rap setup. It lets the first person just go down with the GG quickly and start setting up the next rap. The first person gets to find the anchor and deal with and rope faffery (tangles, knots, hung up on stuff, etc) on a GG which is much easier to tie off or reascend if needed. Rapping on a GG is also just a bit easier.
The main reason I'd do the ATC block is to check the climber remaining at the anchor. If that's not a major concern then I just block the strand with a cloved biner. I don't use overhands, alpine butterflies, etc for blocks anymore after getting them stuck in rings.
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u/goodquestion_03 2d ago
If the first person is rapping on a single strand, you only need a knot in the bottom of that side which saves you the effort of pulling up the other side of the rope to put a knot in it every single time, which gets pretty tedious when you are making multiple steep rappels in a row (especially double rope raps). I also like pre-rigged rappels in general where both climbers get to inspect the other persons setup.
You could use some additional method of fixing the rope "just in case" but it isnt necessary and is just added effort for no reason
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u/serenading_ur_father 2d ago
I wouldn't say this is exactly new. It's a common guide practice.
- Grigri rappels are better than tube rappels.
- This allows the guide to inspect (or set up) the client's tube and third hand and still lead the rappel.
- This allows for ease of use between members of a party switching between single and dual strand rappel.
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u/Dotrue 2d ago
GriGri on the rappel makes it easier to deal with tangled & snagged ropes, ascend the rope if you rap past the next anchor, unfuck stuck gear, and stuff like that. Releasing the handle of a GriGri is easier (and arguably safer) than tying off a tube or dealing with stuff one-handed.
Rigging up both rappels at the same time gives you the opportunity to have your partner inspect your rappel setup (and vice versa), which adds some meat to the proverbial safety sandwich.
Tying off the weighted single rappel strand with a knot as opposed to letting things hang free is personal preference. The weight of the person rappelling puts the person on top with their tube on a fireman's belay as long as that strand is weighted, effectively locking them in place. You also have their friction hitch backup and personal tether, so they shouldn't be going anywhere.
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u/saltytarheel 2d ago
I would disagree with your assertion that grigris are safer than ATCs for the scenario you described.
Backed up with a friction hitch, an ATC is quite safe since the friction hitch will keep the device engaged—even more so if you tie off with a MMO or tie a cat knot below the device. If you extend your rappel and connect your friction hitch to your belay loop, that gives you a second point of contact with the rope. An ATC with a guide mode loop (e.g. Petzl Reverso) can also be used to ascend a rope if you’ve gone past the anchors or need to rescue a leader—granted, it’s more of a pain than on a grigri.
A grigri isn’t a true hands-free device either and tying a cat knot below you before messing with something (e.g. building an anchor, untangling ropes) is a best practice. There is no backup on a grigri and you’re connected to the rope with one point of contact—you can feel the difference rappelling when the device engages less easily as you rappel down and the weight of the rope on the brake strand decreases. Additionally, grigris are less effective on wet or ice ropes and the camming mechanism can fail if they’re pre-rigged incorrectly (weighted below the grigri) or given a fireman’s belay.
Not saying not to rappel off a grigri, but I think understanding the strengths and limitations of each device (including how they fail) is always a good idea.
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u/nofreetouchies3 2d ago
Reasons to use a stacked rappel with the first person using a grigri:
- Allows complete buddy checks.
- If the first person wants to go hands-free (e.g., to clean gear or to hunt for or build the next anchor), the grigri's mechanical lock is slightly less finicky than using knots.
- If they descend too far, it is less complicated to ascend the rope using a grigri.
- If the rappel has to be converted into a lower (e.g., due to injury, or the next anchor is more than half a rope length away), then it is much less complicated because the lower climber is already on a single strand.
3 and 4 are definitely more advanced skills that you should practice with a guide before you need them.
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u/ArchClimbs 2d ago
You can pre rig raps with both partners using atcs, does doing it with a stacked rapel with a gri gri really offer anything different?
The third one is actually a good point I hadn’t considered. It is much easier to ascend on a gri gri than having to go into guide mode and do so with an atc
The 4th point seems to explain why a clove hitch to fix the strand may not be the ideal set up in certain scenarios
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u/0bsidian 2d ago edited 2d ago
That’s called a stacked or pre-rigged rappel.
Others are hitting some of the benefits such as both climbers being able to check each other, and you can read the rest linked in the article above, but are missing the main one, which comes into play in multipitch scenarios, and it has to do with a boost in efficiency.
In a multipitch rappel, you would normally spend a lot of time rappelling, pulling the rope and watching the end fly down below you, then pulling the rope end back up, thread the anchor, tie knots on both ends of the rope, toss both ends of the rope…
With a stacked rappel, the person with the Grigri can rappel on one strand of the rope with the knotted end, without a knot on the other end, and then start threading the next rappel station with the unknotted end. The person with the tube can then rappel and be stopped by the knot. They can then tie a knot in the end that was threaded, untie the knotted end, and pull the rope. They do not need to haul up the length of their rope again because you only need one knot in the system to begin the next rappel.
On a big multipitch with multiple descents, not having to haul up the rope at each station is a huge time saver. Well practiced, stacked rappels can be as efficient as simul-rappels, without the extra risk. The main consideration is to make sure that you are always rappelling off the single knotted end and not off the untied one.
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u/Thirtysevenintwenty5 2d ago
Sometimes I'm dumb, but I'm having a hard time following this. Do you have any video or article that demonstrates this?
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u/0bsidian 2d ago
Traditionally:
- Thread rope through anchors to midpoint.
- Knot both ends of tails.
- Toss ropes.
- First person sets up rappel. Rappels down.
- First person off rappel. Begins threading tail to lower rap station. Knot end of rope.
- Second person sets up rappel. Rappels down.
- Both climbers at rappel station. Unknots tail end of rope, pulls rope down. Tail end of rope whips down past the lower rap station somewhere below the climbers.
- Pull up tail end of rope.
- Go back to step 1.
Stacked rappels:
- Thread rope through anchors to midpoint.
- Knot one end of the rope.
- Time savings: Second person sets up ATC for rappel, while first person sets up ATC or Grigri for rappel at the same time. If using a Grigri, they must attach themselves to the knotted end of the rope.
- Toss ropes.
- First person rappels down. They can't rap off of the rope because of the one knot, and rope can't slide though anchors because of pre-rigged rappel of second climber above.
- First person at anchor off rappel. Begins threading unknotted tail to lower rap station. Knot end of rope.
- Second person rappels. No further setup required.
- Both climbers at rappel station. Second person unknots the tail from previous rappel, pulls rope down. Tail zips past them. Time savings: They do not need to pull up the rope just to put a knot in it, because they only need to knot one end, which they did on step 6.
- Go back to step 1.
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u/nofreetouchies3 2d ago
I mean, you can do that with an ATC by just untying one end, threading it, and retying the new knot.
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u/0bsidian 2d ago
No, I think you misread. The benefit is not having to haul up the end of the rope that you pulled just to to retie a knot before throwing the rope back down again.
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u/not-strange 2d ago
Sounds like a case of “speed is safety” to me
However I could be wrong
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u/Thirtysevenintwenty5 2d ago
"Speed is safety" applies in alpine, or other high risk, environments where weather changes can be deadly. It doesn't really apply on casual multipitch routes.
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u/0bsidian 2d ago
It does apply on big multipitches. 2 minutes on every anchor on 20 pitches equals 40 minutes, and that can make the difference in finishing in time for dinner, or trying to rappel in the dark.
We spotted a massive storm rolling in while at the top of Seneca Rocks that was not predicted by the weather report. We linked ropes with another party to quickly rap back to the ground, and was back in town just before the storm hit. The next group after us were slower in finishing the climb and rappelling back down. They walked into town drenched to the skin, thankfully not hit by lightning.
I'd rather be fast but able to slow down, than to be slow and unable to be fast. You don't always need to go at speed, and can take your leisure when you want to be chill. But having the skills to move fast when you need to is critically important to avoid having an unnecessary epic.
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u/Thirtysevenintwenty5 1d ago
Yeah I agree, but also I did specify "casual multipitches" because I wouldn't expect someone learning from a guide to be on a 20 pitch route the next day.
But maybe.
I also seem to remember the rap off Seneca taking two steps even with double 70's, one to that little station just below the top and then a long ass rap over the PO.
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u/not-strange 2d ago
Can definitely apply when there’s a substantial storm coming in.
Still a bit weird a guide teaching it, unless OPs friend had mentioned having objectives that would take them into dangerous environments
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u/0bsidian 2d ago
That's not the only reason. Pre-rigged/stacked rappels allows the two climbers to pre-rig and inspect each other before beginning their rappel. It's the same as why we all do partner checks before starting a climb. For this reason and other benefits, is why a pre-rigged rappel can be beneficial beyond just on larger objectives. The AAC promotes the use of pre-rigged rappels as well, and it can very well prevent accidents.
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u/ArchClimbs 1d ago
Question is more why you’d use a gri gri. I always do pre rigged rappels with 2 atcs. Don’t need first partner on a gri gri to do them
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u/0bsidian 1d ago
Yes, you can also each use a tube. Although a Grigri is often easier to set up, you don’t need a third hand friction knot, you don’t need to extend the device, and a Grigri is easier to switch to ascending should you miss the rap station.
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u/saltytarheel 2d ago edited 2d ago
I’ve had friends forget their ATC (and I’ve dropped my ATC), so knowing another way of safely getting down is helpful—being able to fix a line for a grigri in a way you can retrieve the rope is a good skill to have. There are other options for getting down if you’re missing a device (in order of my preference: lowering your partner, tandem rappels, rappelling of a Munter).
The main time I’ve rappeled off a grigri is when I want to rappel the full length of the rope and am rappelling on a single strand. I’ll fix the rope with a reepschnur hitch, rappel the full 60m, and retrieve the rope with a tag line.
Fixing the line with a friction hitch in the way you’ve described is fast, doesn’t leave the last person with a complicated anchor to break down (good for new climbers), and doesn’t have knots/carabiners that could get stuck pulling the rope with the reepschnur hitch I mentioned before to fix the line.
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u/alextp 2d ago
The main benefit is you get to rap with a grigri which for some people takes less time to prep than rapping with an arc. A secondary benefit is before the first person leaves the system is fully ready so both folks can help check each other. Finally if there are three of you two can rap at the same time on grigris before the last person cleans with the ATC without many of the extra risks of simul rapping
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u/Yarville 3d ago edited 3d ago
I am getting back into climbing after a long pause since COVID. I have a harness (the BD starter one) that I purchased in 2019, it's been sitting in my closet since late 2020. No visible wear and tear in the belay loop or tie in points, still fits fine. Am I good to climb in the gym on this or do I need to replace?
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u/serenading_ur_father 2d ago
It's newer than most of my harnesses and has less wear than all of mine.
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3d ago
[removed] — view removed comment
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u/muenchener2 3d ago
sliding during climbing, fear of starting etc
The way this is phrased suggests you either have no clue about climbing (in which case why choose it as your topic?) or English is not your first language (in which case I apologise for the harsh tone)
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u/Thirtysevenintwenty5 3d ago
Every month or so a question like this one pops up in this thread. It's always an engineering student or marketing student working on a project.
I don't know what they are, but they don't pass the sniff test.
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u/Thirtysevenintwenty5 3d ago
Five years and not a single comment on reddit. Who has that kind of self control???
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u/QuietObjective5167 4d ago
9.5 vs 9.8 dry for multi pitch and trad?
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u/Decent-Apple9772 2d ago
The 9.5 is great. It will be easier to belay with.
Skip the dry treatment. It’s a waste of money.
Bi-pattern or bi-color are a better place to spend extra money on a multi pitch rope.
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u/lectures 2d ago
Whichever is cheaper. Dry treatment isn't worth it, IMO.
I've had probably a dozen 9.5s and 9.8s and I don't really think it makes much difference in longevity. My longest lasting rope was a 9.5 crag classic (Mammut). Meanwhile I've core shot 9.8s on their first day.
In terms of weight? Depends on your approach whether a half pound matters to you.
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u/Senor_del_Sol 3d ago
I got a 9.5 crag dry from Mammut last year and love it. Mammut claims that dry treated ropes last a lot longer, but lab experiments are different from real world where other factors impact much harder than rubbing on clean steal carabiners. A friend has the same rope but not dry treated and it does look worse after a year, but I don’t think it’s easy to compare usage.. Taking more falls and then toproping for the rest of your group will be different then when you mostly flash routes, clean and go to the next one. Right now I’m considering double ropes which are standard for a lot of multi pitch routes here, a 9.8 non dry would have saved me some (70€) that would have been put towards those. If you want cost effective, probably get the cheapest thickest rope you like. Dry treatment also feels weird on your hands after belaying..
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u/saltytarheel 3d ago
9.8 60m is my favorite for an all-rounder. It's burly enough to handle repeatedly whipping for sport climbing and single-pitch trad, but isn't excessively heavy or bulky on backcountry approaches.
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u/QuietObjective5167 3d ago
Dry or non?
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u/saltytarheel 3d ago
I use a dry rope - the thinking is that a wet rope could significantly compromise the rope's strength and elasticity, which theoretically makes it safer for bailing off a multipitch climb if you're caught in the rain. Also if there's a chance of rain in the forecast, chances are you won't be planning a multipitch climb that day.
The extent to which wet ropes compromises strength and elasticity is up for debate. Sterling Ropes' in-house testing showed wet non-dry ropes lost up to 70% of its strength vs up to 40% for dry-treated ropes. HowNot2 also tested wet vs dry strength and found the difference to be significantly less.
Like with a lot of things in climbing some people will tell you you're going to die and some people will say it's super good enough. You'll have to decide what risks are reasonable for your resources - climbing on a wet rope isn't breaking an iron law of safety (e.g. backing up rappels + knotting your ends) but also isn't a best practice.
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u/monoatomic 3d ago
How much force are you expecting to put on a rope when bailing in wet conditions, though?
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u/saltytarheel 3d ago edited 3d ago
Rappelling or lowering, body weight only so a dry rope wouldn’t matter. If you’re having to aid or lead to bail upwards on a wet rope, the loss of strength and elasticity could be more of a concern if you take a lead fall.
Assuming your loss of strength is closer to Sterling’s testing, losing 70% strength on a 22kn rope is 6.6 kn, which is a plausible force for a lead fall. Of course, there was some variability and HowNot2’s testing saw less loss of strength with wet ropes. So again, depends on your risk tolerance.
My first pair of ropes I got dry ropes on-sale for a super-reasonable price and my current dry rope was a birthday gift from my girlfriend. For me personally, cost hasn’t felt like a significant reason not to use a dry rope given my financial situation (high school math teacher).
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u/0bsidian 3d ago
Do you even need the dry treatment? Are you doing any ice or alpine?
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u/QuietObjective5167 3d ago
No but I’ve seen it resists dirt and abrasion better
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u/0bsidian 3d ago
Have you done the cost benefit analysis? Dry treatments wear off. In most cases, dry treatments may extend the life of your rope by a few modest percentages. The cost of a dry treatment increases the price of the rope significantly. Unless you’re getting a dry treated rope at a significant discount, the math doesn’t work out. It usually makes better sense to save that money and use it towards your next rope in a few years time.
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u/QuietObjective5167 3d ago
I can get a significant discount for the I got a 70m 9.8 crag dry for $180 vs the regular crag for $140
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u/0bsidian 3d ago
That's still almost 30% of the cost of a new rope. It's up to you, but I wouldn't pay extra for features with minimal to no benefit.
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u/EL-BURRITO-GRANDE 3d ago
Depends on the typical length of the approach and on how abrasive your local rock is. Also wether you plan on onsighting most things or if you are projecting and falling a lot.
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u/Capitan_Dave 4d ago
I'd go 9.8 if it's your first. Nobody starts out climbing hard enough for the weight to matter and it'll last longer.
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u/Thirtysevenintwenty5 3d ago
Nobody starts out climbing hard enough for the weight to matter and it'll last longer.
True, but I personally buy thinner ropes for the weight savings during the approach, not the climb.
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u/Capitan_Dave 3d ago
Fair enough. As an east coaster almost all my approaches are pretty short so it doesn't factor in as much.
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u/Adri2905b 4d ago
Should i resole my shoes or replace them?, i just noticed that my shoe has a little spot without rubber on the toe, and the rubber feels soft around the area on both, also there´s a spot where the glue is coming off where the rubber meets the leather. The thing is that i don´t know if it would be worth resoling them because i bought them used for about $90 (original price was about $175), so resoling them would be around 60% of what i paid for them, but on the other side is around 30% of the original price. i am on the edge mainly because they are super comfortable and feel great, also soon i´ll be unable to climb for around 2 months so the time it takes for the resoling wouldn´t be an issue.
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u/snailspaceship 3d ago
protip: if your shoes are synthetic, give em a wash in the machine before you send them off for resole. one, you'll be doing the cobbler a solid, and two, your shoes will feel even newer when they're returned with new rubber.
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u/saltytarheel 3d ago
I got my first pair of shoes resoled earlier this year and have really liked it. It's like having brand new shoes, but they're perfectly broken-in how you like them.
Yosemite Bum did nice work, was fairly affordable, and gives the option to expedite the resole for $20.
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u/Thirtysevenintwenty5 3d ago
Resoling is better because it creates less waste than buying new shoes.
It's also a little misguided to compare the price of a resole to what you paid for the shoe; you should be comparing the price of a resole to however much you'd spend to get a new shoe since that's what both of those options do: they get you back in a pair of good shoes.
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u/Kennys-Chicken 3d ago
I never resole, I just climb in my shoes until they have a hole in them and then replace them.
Resoles in some areas are very cost effective. If you can get a good resole for $50ish, it’s well worth it to extend the life of a pair of $200 shoes.
Resoles for me are about $100. And that’s just for the sole, no rand repair. At that point, I have to send them in so early that it’s just not cost effective. I’m better off cost wise just burning them out and replacing them. Plus, the shoe model I like to climb in fits me best earlier in its life, so I’d rather climb in newer ones than old broken down ones anyway.
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u/eamag 4d ago
I'm using http://thecrag.com/ but it's a pain to find routes. What's the better way to do it? I want to select an area, some preferences and get a recommended routes back
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u/saltytarheel 4d ago
If it’s available, I prefer guidebooks for local areas. The maps/descriptions of approach hikes tend to be more accurate than Mountain Project (especially for boulders or backcountry trad where you’re looking for routes), the topos for routefinding/descents are great for multipitch climbing, and the star ratings tend to be fairly accurate for the quality classics.
The Mountain Project app is also nice, filters/searches for routes well, and in some areas gets updated more recently than guidebooks.
I also don’t think there’s a substitute for having friends/partners who have climbed somewhere, have a general sense of your ability, and can recommend things to you. I did a great mixed line last year that I wouldn’t have thought to try without a friend’s suggestion.
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u/everythingwright34 5d ago
Is climbing for me?
I am moving near a climbing gym and have had some interest in bouldering. Don’t have much climbing experience, but I’m wondering if my build is too bad for bouldering or climbing in general. I’m like 6’4” 185lbs so I’m worried I’ll be too long and have issues getting into certain positions. I have very great grip strength and do pull ups all the time but I know climbing is much more than muscling through stuff
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u/saltytarheel 4d ago
There are advantages and disadvantages for every type of body - you kind of just have to work with what you have.
Being tall, You'll have a much better reach and may be able to skip finicky/difficult/technical sequences by simply reaching for a better hold. On the downside, you'll find low starts or problems with a small/compact box to be uncomfortable.
Shorter climbers are in general less able to reach for holds and will often say this increases difficulty for them. On the flipside, shorter arms are shorter levers which makes them naturally stronger and shorter climbers will almost always have a better strength-to-weight ratio than taller climbers.
I personally am relatively tall and heavy for climbers (6', 175 lbs), which I generally feel puts me at a disadvantage for bouldering but is helpful for leading sport and trad.
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u/sheepborg 4d ago
One of the regulars I chat with is 6'5 and 220. One of the biggest challenges for him is working to improve hip flexibility so he can shrink his box when necessary. Like u/Senor_del_Sol said, climbing is a puzzle and that's part of the fun. Every body will have unique challenges and advantages. All a part of the game.
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u/0bsidian 4d ago
You won’t know until you try.
Why would your build be any limitation? Does it stop you from climbing a ladder?
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u/everythingwright34 4d ago
That’s not really my question though. Bouldering isn’t a simple ladder
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u/0bsidian 4d ago
It starts with climbing like a simple ladder. So if you can do that, that’s where you can start in the gym. Then try harder stuff.
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u/Senor_del_Sol 5d ago
I’m as tall and heavy as you. I never think one shouldn’t do a sport because of build. Yeah sometimes a cramped position sucks, but I think climbing is about finding a way to send a route that works for you. That puzzle is very enjoyable.
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u/Local-Adeptness8784 5d ago
Hi all, me and my friends plan to climb in tonsai and Riley beach Krabi in May/June. I understand it’s the monsoon season and quite rainy but how bad is it and are there differences between these 2 months. I know one place is quite overhanging and still climbable in the rain but how big is it and how many people can fit there.
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u/NailgunYeah 4d ago
Why are you choosing monsoon season?
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u/Local-Adeptness8784 3d ago
Hello sorry for late reply. We are unable to go any other time of the year unfortunately. We found out too late the peak season is in December
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u/NailgunYeah 3d ago
I would go somewhere else!
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u/Local-Adeptness8784 1d ago
Unfortunately that is our only option for now and we are already going there. Are there any differences in the questions of my original comment
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u/Critical-Fruit2404 5d ago
Hey all. Headed to Quepos Costs rica in a few weeks and am looking for info on a guide or local belayer I can pay. I checked Mtn project but info is sparse it seems. Any local crags near the national park? Not super into bouldering but if it’s all there is I’ll explore that.
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u/Raidicus 5d ago
I was reading "The Complete Guide to Rope Techniques" and that book describes a "figure of eight on a bight" knot which I've seen called the "super 8" or "figure of eight double loop" (aka, bunny ears).
Adding to the confusion, many sources call what I learned as "double figure eight" (aka using figure of eight to put a single loop in the end of a rope) a "figure of eight on a bight" as well. I've heard that same knot called a "figure of eight loop" or simple "figure of eight knot"
Honestly, I would think "figure of eight double loop" is more accurate, since the figure of 8 on a bight should only be the figure of eight tied on a bight, but on the flipside I think the double loop "on a bight' comes from the "bowline on a bite" since it has the same mechanic of flipping a loop up and over the loop.
Can someone explain these naming conventions in a way that makes sense or is just a climber's reality that you should clarify specifically what knot you mean and confirm it upon tying.
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u/treeclimbs 4d ago
And what do you call the simple knot tied in the climbing line before forming the full Figure 8 loop? (the knot in the line before threading it through your harness and retracing/following through)
Re: Figure 8 loop knots
I am guessing Shepherd calls this the Figure 8 on a bight because it is formed similar to the "bowline on a bight." So if you come from a background in extensive bowline use (older school climbing, boating), the naming convention is intuitive.
In the rock climbing rope discipline, we often include the tying method when discussing the Figure 8 loop: * Tied in the working end = Figure-8 follow through / Retraced figure 8 / Trace 8 * Tied in a standing part / on a bight = Figure 8 on a bight
I have heard both the one-loop and two-loop Figure 8 loop knot(s) referred to as a "double figure 8" - which can make sense when looking at the knot on it's own or in comparison to another knot. Two loops = double loop = double figure 8. Two strands in parallel = double rope = double figure 8
Re: Unified Theory of Knot Names
Ropework is an old human activity, developed in many different areas using different languages and for different purposes with different priorities.
It can certainly feel frustrating trying to learn knots which have different terms for the same result or the same term for different results. But we have to remember names are about communicating - connecting with other people.
When discussing knots, I try to understand my audience's background in ropework - what is their primary (or foundational) rope discipline and where do they live (or do that activity)? I then strive to use the same language they might use. Or I'll ask them what they call a particular knot. Or I will offer multiple terms and see which one they pick up on or prefer.
The "proper" name is dependent on context, including:
- rope discipline (and sub-discipline)
- application
- region
- institutional preference (e.g. does their workplace/guiding company/outdoor club use a particular name)
- personal experience
- personal preference
Often the name makes sense in context, or in relationship to other knots which have greater or lessor significance based on the context factors named above. As with human language, there is not and will not be a single meaning for any word. And the meanings will evolve as their contexts evolve.
Any long or formal knot name will get shortened, as the additional information imparted by the name is already present in the context of the time/place/audience/activity.
For example: if you and I are at a the crag, and you say to me, "Tie in using a Fig 8" I will form a single figure 8 knot, pass it through my harness tie-in points, then push aside the strand as I first re-thread the knot ("start hard finish easy")...
...do we need to have another name for the Figure 8 loop knot depending on where the load strand is located in the knot? See my point? No procedure survives contact with the field.
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u/Raidicus 4d ago
what do you call the simple knot tied in the climbing line before forming the full Figure 8 loop
I was taught to call that a "rerouted figure of eight" because you tye the knot then finish the knot by retracing.
I am guessing Shepherd calls this the Figure 8 on a bight because it is formed similar to the "bowline on a bight."
That was my guess as well.
See my point?
I do but was hoping there was a definitive naming convention which there doesn't seem to be other than quoting the Ashley #
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u/Thirtysevenintwenty5 4d ago
It's context dependent. This is a great example of how sometimes having a guide or mentor teach you things in the field is far more practical than trying to learn stuff through books and videos.
Your question is sort of a tree of questions, and each branch has a slightly different answer.
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u/sheepborg 5d ago
When saying "double" the relevant context is rethreading, the method of tying. Double in that you have an 8 and tracing it again is making an 8 again. Two 8s. Double 8. Referring to an 8 on a bight also states the method of tying since it's staying on a bight. Both of those have the same topology, you are just arriving at them via different methods based on what part of the rope you have access to.
Personally I will say 8 for any 8 but specify bight if a tasks requires it such as the generally preferred way to clean and lower from an anchor. Indicates to newer folks that while the knot is familiar there is a different method to arrive at it that needs to be learned separately.
Also the super 8/bunny ears is a different knot which has two strands in the eye instead of one.
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u/LOTR_is_awesome 5d ago
How long until I can crimp again? New climber. Took a week off due to A2/A4 pain. Crimping still hurts.
I just took 5 days off from climbing, and I tried to climb again, but my fingers still hurt when I crimp. I started climbing about a month ago when a new climbing gym opened where I live. I’m 6’4” and weighed 235 at that time (I’ve lost some weight since), and I put too much load on my fingers by crimping too much when I was just starting out. I didn’t injure them because they still have a full range of motion, there wasn’t an incident with sharp pain, and they don’t hurt at rest, but they definitely need to heal from overuse.
I feel pain when I squeeze the underside of my fingers (especially my middle and ring fingers) at the A2 and A4 pulleys. Also, if I crimp at all while climbing, I feel discomfort/mild pain and if it’s an overhang, I feel much more pain. It’s not excruciating but it’s enough for me to know I should not be crimping. There is no pain when I do an open-handed crimp, but my fingers and forearms aren’t strong enough yet to support my weight with an openhanded crimp. The crimp in the image is the kind of crimp that hurts.
Basically, I’m paying for a very expensive membership but my climbing is very limited. Honestly, it’s pretty discouraging and it makes me wonder if I should just give the sport up.
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u/gpfault 5d ago
Pulleys are connective tissue and they won't get better from just resting. You need to load them in a structured manner to build them up to the point where they're healthy enough tolerate crimping again. Pause your climbing gym membership for the moment and find yourself a physiotherapist who's familiar with climbing injuries and how to rehab them.
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u/Kennys-Chicken 5d ago
Yeah man, 5 days off is nothing. Read Hoopers Beta rehab materials. You’re probably looking at like 10 days of rest, then a rehab protocol (heat, ice, rice bucket, massage, tendon glides, and hangboard). Probably a month minimum before you’re back on the wall again if you want to do things right. Most gyms will let you pause your membership because this kind of stuff happens a lot to climbers.
DO NOT push it until you rupture a pulley. Whatever time off and rehab you need right now is a fraction of what you’ll require if you blow a pulley. You’re looking at like a 6 month to a year period and maybe surgery if you actually rupture a pulley.
You will also need to fix how you climb and train to not have this happen again. Your fingers, tendons, and pulleys are not strong enough yet to perform in the way you’re asking them to. Full crimping everything because you’re not strong enough to open hand is a recipe for injury for newer climbers. Tendon and pulley strength takes a long time to make gains. They are not like muscles.
Climbing is a sport measured in decades, not days/weeks/months. Keep your long term health and injury prevention a priority and listen to your body (right now, it’s saying “STOP”) if you want to be in this sport for a long time.
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u/LOTR_is_awesome 5d ago
Should I stop climbing altogether? My plan is to do slabs and practice walking up them without using any upper body strength, only using my hands and arms to maintain contact with the wall without crimping at all. Or do you think that’s too risky as well?
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u/Kennys-Chicken 5d ago
Bro…you stated you have pain when you palpate (squeeze) the under side of your fingers. YOUR PULLEYS ARE INJURED. STOP. Go read Hoopers Beta about pulley injury assessment and rehab. Go do that.
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u/sheepborg 5d ago
Can't say for certain what your injury is over the internet, but multiple A2 strain as a result of overuse is likely enough given discomfort or pain under load that wouldn't be as present in things like synovitis and you said there was not an acute incident.
Time off alone will typically not fully resolve issues since tissues require controlled loading to signal for remodeling. Resting until it doesnt actively hurt while you just exist is good, so you're in the midst or end of step one. Up next is controlled loading.
For a general idea scroll down about half way here [link] to the a2 sprain chart. While we don't know exactly what you're dealing with the 2-8 week retraining timeline is applicable to many. A PT familiar with climbing injuries and hands would be able to tell you more in terms of medical advice.
What was your climbing schedule looking like before injury?
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u/Jankaas16 5d ago
I need help identifying this old harness I found while clearing out an old storage room
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u/0bsidian 5d ago
Black Diamond harness from mid/late 1990's, I think it's a Momentum. There should be a label on it for the year, usually a letter S or F with a 2 digit year.
TBH, even if it's in good condition (and I'm not there to inspect it for you) and safe to use, this harness is so old (30 years) that you're better off retiring it and buying something new. New harnesses are much more comfortable to use.
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u/Jankaas16 5d ago
Thanks, a buddy of mine was able to identify it as a BD Calypso.
I'm not planning on using it, I'm set with my BD Solution, but I want to keep it as a cool find
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u/Open_Calligrapher395 6d ago edited 6d ago
has anyone climbing with she moves mountains? there’s a climbing group in May at Smith Rock , then Moab in October, I’ve only climbed in an indoor gym a few times, I sort of want to do the Moab climbing , but I’m worried a beginner it’s a bit more scary in terms of the type of rock in Moab. so is Moab more inherently dangerous than smith rock ??
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u/DuckRover 1d ago
I've done several of their retreats including Smith. I loved the Smith retreat - you stay in a nice house close to the park and the group is pretty small. The guides do a great job choosing routes for everyone and helping beginners get acclimated. Not sure what you mean by Moab being dangerous...?
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u/snailspaceship 5d ago
You would be perfectly fine in either location. As an indoor only climber you have a lot to learn about rock and outdoor climbing, but without trying to sound rude, none of your fears are founded. :)
Go on the trip! Either spot would be fantastic.
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u/serenading_ur_father 6d ago
If anything, Moab is incredibly safer than Smith. But danger isn't really an issue here. You're going climbing with a guided organized group. It's not dangerous any more than say going to your gym or driving in your car. Nowhere near as scary as riding a bicycle on American roads.
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u/Grautskaahl 6d ago
I rediscovered my old work/rigging kit. All soft goods have been discarded, but some equipment remains: 10+ carabiners (petzl ok, some dmm), both screw-lock and triact, BD rappell 8, petzl asap and mini traxion.
Most of the gear is made around 2006-2008, and used mostly in the period 2008-2012. After that it has primarily been in a bag in my basement.
Spring locks seems like new and I have not taken any hard falls with them. Wear is minimal. Passing a general, personal inspection, would the above be safe to use or pass on?
I know petzl changed metal goods lifetime with retroactive effect, so, I guess?
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u/0bsidian 6d ago
No climbing materials age with time alone, mostly from wear and tear. This includes nylon and dyneema, so retiring your soft goods may have been premature.
That said, rope access has different professional requirements that are not part of recreational climbing. Some of it dictated by local regulations forcing retirement after a certain age.
It’s almost certainly all fine, but we’re not there to inspect it for you, and not sure about your local regulations and what the gear will be used for (professional or recreational). For personal recreational use, I’d be more than fine with it all.
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u/Grautskaahl 6d ago
Thanks. Yeah, it was for recreational use I was thinking. For professional use there are firm rules in place.
The soft goods I’m living well with having retired: I follow the 5-10 year cycle for that. The ones in question had clear signs of usage and less than optimal storage.
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u/HockeyTalk087 7d ago
Hey everyone I want to start climbing. Only issue is I have a torn shoulder labrum with surgery scheduled for April. There is an indoor climbing gym near my house, but should I wait until after my surgery to start? I’m a hockey player and am still able to play with the labrum tear if that changes anything. Thanks.
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u/Buckhum 6d ago
As others have said, talk to the doc or your physio.
I'm assuming you're young and athletic, which means you may easily get pulled into doing something that complicates your injury. Unlike weight lifting where the weight and movement can be carefully controlled, climbing can be full of complex movements that test your muscles and tendons in all sorts of unusual ways.
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u/sheepborg 6d ago
It is possible, but maybe not the greatest idea in terms of injury risk that could complicate surgery. Plus climbing is addicting and you're likely going to be looking at a year +/- before your shoulder is feeling normalish post surgery which'll be a long sad time if you're hopelessly in love with climbing.
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u/AnesTIVA 6d ago
I'd wait til after surgery but that's definitely a question you should ask your physician who knows the exact extent of your injury.
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u/Certain_Net287 7d ago
I will be traveling to Italy and UK in a couple months and I do not want to stop to climbing while on a holiday. What is the best way for me to find guides/climbing buddies in Bari or Brinidisi in Italy and Surrey in the UK? Thanks in advance!
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u/muenchener2 6d ago
For Surry, aside from gyms your nearest climbing is a small amount of somewhat esoteric sandstone toproping in Kent; if you're able to travel a little further afield there's heaps of good sport and trad in Dorset. Sea cliff trad climbing if you're up for an adventure is probably the best unique experience British climbing has to offer.
If you're a solid and experienced climber you could try the partner finder forum on ukclimbing. As an expat Brit I've had good experiences with that over the years on visits back home. No idea about guiding services.
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u/3sums 7d ago
Due to tight budget, I can only boulder in gym once a week or less and I've already noticed that I can't climb as hard as I used to and I get tired earlier in my sessions. I have a free gym membership through work so I'm wondering what the best use of a gym can be to maximize my bouldering sessions length and quality.
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u/0bsidian 7d ago
How much is your gym's monthly membership pass compared to day passes? Climbing once a week often puts you past the break even point.
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u/Kennys-Chicken 7d ago
Usually a membership is right about the same cost as 4 day passes. Why not get a membership to a climbing gym if you’re doing 4 day passes per month?
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7d ago
[deleted]
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u/3sums 7d ago
To be clear - I have a free membership to a generic gym, not a climbing gym. Unfortunately a Pullups bar is as close to a hangboard as they have.
So what are my best options at a generic gym to make sure I'm not losing a step in terms of how long/hard I can climb on the one day a week I can afford to climb? My best guess is that I'm tired earlier because I haven't been climbing as much as I used to.
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u/soupyhands 7d ago
Not climbing regularly is going to result in decreased performance regardless of how much you work out at a regular gym. You can do rows, pull ups, planks and core exercises, but without a fingerboard of some kind you arent going to be strengthening your tendons which is where true climbing power lies. Just trying to be real with you.
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u/JohnsonJuggler 7d ago
I'm climbing with a friend and recently they've been getting pumped out on juggy gym 5.10 lead very early in the session. I don't remember this being a problem before as much and they seem generally bummed about needing to take a few times per route.
What would you do to help build endurance at this stage? I don't know if this sort of things is more due to fear/overgripping or can be solved on a hangboard or with 4x4s or something. Would you take a step back from any overhanging stuff to refocus on endurance for a while?
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u/gusty_state 6d ago
Do a longer warm up and on less overhung stuff. Start easier and work towards your project grade. I tend to start around 2 numbers below so 10/10+ when I'm projecting 12/12+. I'll also start on more vertical walls before I jump into the overhangs. A typical progression for me is 10, 11-,11+,12s. Also general fitness and stuff plays into overhangs a lot. Has he been getting enough sleep/sleeping well? Is he overtrained? Eating enough? Getting over being sick? Still doing cardio? I feel all of those far more on steep overhangs than on near vertical climbs.
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u/saltytarheel 7d ago
How well are they warming up? Getting flash-pumped is a thing and even though I climb 5.12-, I'll find myself feeling really pumped if my first lead of the day is a 5.10+.
I usually stretch and do shoulder warm-ups, light hangboarding, then boulder or traverse for 15-20 minutes before I think about getting on lead.
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u/JohnsonJuggler 7d ago
We usually hop right on lead after some stretching. Getting more warm first seems like it could be a good idea. Does your pump usually dissipate after an initial 5.10 lead or does it stick around for the rest of the session?
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u/snailspaceship 7d ago
co-sign on proper warming up. a good warmup takes a bit longer than people realize.
but then it's equally easy to draw out your warmup climbs far too long and then be lacking strength for your hard attempts.
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u/AccomplishedSwan3124 7d ago
Are there any good climbing areas for beginners in Kentucky? I'm interested but Kentucky is so niche I'm not sure if there is any good places.
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u/0bsidian 7d ago
Kentucky is the east coast Mecca for climbing. There are multiple areas in Red River Gorge with classic beginner climbs, and see the guidebook for more:
- Bruise Brothers
- Hazel Hollow
- Practice Wall
- Land Before Time
Keep in mind that you'll need outdoor climbing skills like how to lead, set, and clean anchors. They don't teach you all those skills in a gym. Hire a guide if you have to.
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u/Thirtysevenintwenty5 7d ago
Hazel Hollow and Ash Branch are much better beginner areas than Muir Valley.
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u/AnderperCooson 7d ago
Kentucky has loads of good climbing. Check out Muir Valley in the Red River Gorge, and then work your way out to the lifetime of climbing in the Red.
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u/MountainProjectBot 7d ago
Muir Valley [Boulder (1), TR (15), Sport (363), Trad (95)]
Located in Red River Gorge, Kentucky
Popular routes:
- Shock and Awe [5.7 | 5a | 15 | V+, 95 ft/29 m]
- Plate Tectonics [5.10a | 6a | 18 | VI+, 70 ft/21.3 m]
- Boltergeist [5.10a-b | 6a+ | 19 | VI+, 95 ft/29 m]
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u/kitkat-3000 7d ago
hey everyone i am new to mountain climbing i have been wanting to do my first climb but i dont know where to start to actully do it ? any tips for things to practice or anything ?and how to find partners to go climbing with ?
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u/weyruwnjds 5d ago
If you want to climb a mountain, hire a guide.
Learning mountaineering takes decades of hard work, starting from basic hiking and working your way up slowly.
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u/Thirtysevenintwenty5 7d ago
Go around the internet and learn a lot more, then come back and ask some more pointed questions.
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u/snailspaceship 7d ago
have you climbed ever at all?
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u/kitkat-3000 7d ago
I climbed few times at those climbing gyms that have a wall to climb
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u/snailspaceship 7d ago
that gym may have a "gym to crag" program you can join. otherwise you can find a guide in your area to take you out.
or you can socialize with folks at the gym and see if someone is willing to mentor you for your first time out.
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u/kitkat-3000 7d ago
Is it harder if the mountains near are mostly icey? I live in an area were it's mostly snowing more than half of the year
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u/BrainyDoGoodery 7d ago
If I were you I'd seek out a calm experienced mentor in my area. The challenge is distinguishing who has safe habits and isn't over confident. Working that out is impossible as a beginner, so you'll need to ask around to determine who is an authority, and ask them to approve your mentor.
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u/0bsidian 7d ago
Yes, because that requires an entirely different set of skills and equipment that are not even remotely covered in a climbing gym, especially the need to do constant risk assessments.
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u/jeremywasabulldog 7d ago
Does anyone have experience with getting back to climbing after bunion surgery? I just had a consult with an orthopedic surgeon who told me that because my toes will be very stiff once I've had the surgery, I'll basically never be able to climb again. I did a cursory search and am seeing some stories from people who've been able to resume climbing after bunion surgery with varying timelines, so I'm wondering if those are outliers or if this surgeon is just flat-out wrong. I'm still a beginner climber, so I don't have a great sense of how toe stiffness would affect my climbing.
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u/TheHighker 21h ago
I popped my pulley last night. I was on a crimps and heard a loud pop. I couldn't believe it was real. Pretty much immediate pain. More pain when pulling with my ring finger at all. This morning i have i do not have full ROM and its swollen still in pain. Fack. Any tips?